DATELINE: DECEMBER 17, 2024 – ST. JOHN’S ISLAND, SINGAPORE
Perhaps, as Marta claims, it’s because I never really grew up. Perhaps it’s because I love candy and presents. But whatever the reason, the holidays, from Halloween through Orthodox Christmas, are very important to me, and rarely find me far from home. Anything after October 15 enters sacred territory, where we must decorate the house, eat festive forms of cholesterol, celebrate with friends, and watch several dozen holiday-themed movies and specials – ranging from “Lucy is the Devil, Charlie Brown” to “Grumpy Cat Peed on the Santa Cookies.” As we get into Christmas, we are generally either at a holiday party, hosting a holiday party, or curled up in front of the fire trying to find that one Hallmark movie that ends with infidelity and violence, or at least more than one kiss.
To get me out of the house at Christmas, let alone to leave the country for six days, would take an extraordinary combination of circumstances. There would need to be no parties scheduled. Marta would need to be pulled into some sort of unavoidable work emergency. Hallmark couldn’t be putting out anything new or edgy. I would desperately need the air miles to keep my status for next year. And there would need to be some genius fisherman in a faraway land who knew where to find lots of unusual species. Most importantly, all this would need to happen from December 14-17, because, in my OCD world, those are four of the remaining 19 dates of the year on which I had not caught a new species.
As everyone but Cousin Chuck has figured out, exactly those circumstances coalesced during the 2024 Christmas season. Marta got yanked into an unavoidable project for a few days, I needed a bunch of air miles, and most importantly, I had been introduced to Jiayuan in Singapore.
I know a lot of fishermen in Singapore – Jarvis and Alex for starters – but these have been big-game jigging and popping guys. Jiayuan – a connection through some of the species gang in the US – is an expert in all of that weird stuff that I treasure so much – the beasts that Alex so lovingly calls “panty fish.” Jiayuan was up for taking some time to fish with me, subject to school and job schedules, and I could fill in the rest.
So it was that I found myself on a United 787 for 16 hours, arriving early on the 14th and heading directly to an old, familiar location – Palau Ubin island.
I had been here before with Dave – the man with the most Heng ever.
Armed with a handful of frozen shrimp, some light gear, and a map from Jiayuan marked up with red Sharpie, I walked a three mile loop and realized I had not planned well for intense heat and humidity. Still, I took my time, stayed in the shade, drank at least a gallon of water, and went about my business. I had just flown 8500 miles, so surely the fish would bite. Right? Right??
I spent an hour on the shoreline looking for some sort of exotic eel, then worked my way into the creeks to chase more likely stuff. I stopped at a small culvert that was supposed to have, among other things, the very rare dwarf garfish. They were there. And they would bite. But they were so ridiculously tiny and badly-designed that they would not stay hooked. I found myself distracted by some larger gobies, and began trying for them. I thought I got three new species, but alas, two of them were the male and female of the same species – curse you, sexual dimorphism!
Species number one of the trip – I’m calling it the Singapore spotted goby, because it doesn’t have a common name listed and “Stigmatagobius sadanundio” seemed a bit over the top.
Cantor’s gudgeon – number two on the board.
Working my way deeper into the creek system, I stopped at a larger channel that had both convenient access and a handy drink vendor. I can’t emphasize enough how much water an out-of-shape 61 year-old has to drink in these circumstances. My main quarry at this spot was a type of mudskipper, so this meant I had to slip around in the mud and sight-cast some very tricky little adversaries. I managed to get a single new one, the dusky-gilled mudskipper, and realized that I looked like I had just lost a mud-wrestling match in the worst bar in Cleveland.
The aforementioned mudskipper.
As I headed for the ferry, I felt obligated to make one more try for dwarf garfish. They were there, plain as the nose on Anna Kendrick’s face was at one time, but they were hard to get sorted out from the other fish and even harder to hook because of their inconvenient mouth structure. A small group of them stayed around my hook and continually nipped at the offering, and as minutes turned into hours, I should have been questioning my target fixation but was too busy being target fixated. About 15 minutes before the last ferry, one finally stayed on the hook all the way to my glove hand.
That was species four of the day – excellent by any standards, especially for someplace I had visited dozens of times before.
That evening, I had dinner with old friend David Barkess, he of Exmouth trip fame.
The photo isn’t blurry – we were.
We didn’t eat here, but I thought the photo was worth posting. Turns out the place is a sandwich shop that specializes in egg salad. I don’t eat egg salad because, at Easter of 1971, my Mom made egg salad but left it out overnight, apparently not understanding that the mayo would turn deadly. I spent most of the day in the bathroom. My Dad and sister were also affected, but mysteriously, my Mom didn’t eat any of it.
The next day would be a biggie – a full day with Jiayuan running around his secret spots in Singapore. We had corresponded quite a bit before I got on the place, and we had a list of at least 15 species to chase in one short day. Despite it feeling like the night before Christmas, I for once got a decent night of sleep.
Early in the morning, I Ubered over to yet another corner of the island I had never visited. Jiayuan was there and eager to go – it’s always great to meet someone in person when you’ve been talking fish with them nonstop for a couple of months. I was, as usual, revved up on Red Bull and gushing about all the fish IDs he had already helped me clarify. Jiayuan was modest and taciturn, and very eager to get us into the fish. He had organized his list by geography, and it would be a very full day to get from the interior creeks to the mangroves to some harbor structure.
We set up tenago rods and wandered back into some tiny pools hidden at the edge of complete jungle, and, as my eyes adjusted to the conditions, I could see the place was jammed with life.
In two spots, separated by what felt like a five mile hike but was really just eight kilometers, we knocked off six quick species. These were:
The two-spot rasbora. We caught them in two spots.
The saddle barb.
The harlequin rasbora, the first really photogenic creature of the trip. Remember, this was not at an aquarium.
The scissortail rasbora.
Another photogenic one – they call this a whitespot, and it’s somewhere in the topminnow family.
And finally, a tiger barb – my 23rd barb species, the 10th overall of the trip, and 2353 lifetime.
Once we wrapped up the pond trek, we made a stop for a healthy lunch at Burger King. Our next destination would be the mangroves, perhaps 20 minutes away by Uber. Jiayuan would have walked it, being the budget-conscious student, but I had done enough walking for the week.
I did not look forward to going into the mangroves. It was dark, slippery, and filled with mosquitoes and, as far as I am concerned, cobras.
If this looks safe to you, get help.
In the next 25 minutes, using less than 1 gram of shrimp, and catching less than 20 grams of fish, I added four – you heard me, four – new species. I never would have found them on my own. These weren’t even tiny pools of water – they were more like damp areas that fish had somehow wedged themselves into. The catches were:
The spotted snubnose mangrove goby.
The variegate mangrove goby.
The checkered mangrove goby – the hardest fight of the group.
And finally, the dirty-faced mangrove goby. That took the day up to 10 and the trip to 14.
Jiayuan seemed pleased with the results but kept mentioning other species we might find in different seasons. He’s getting close to his undergrad degree, so I knew I wanted to get back before he had a chance to move anywhere else to start grad studies. We finished the day at one of the ferry landings, tossing lightly-weighted shrimp bits and seeing what would bite. Jiayuan rattled off at least a dozen creatures there I needed, but I kept getting small groupers.
Steve and Jiayuan with a blue-line hind – a species I added with Jean-Francois in Thailand.
Just as it got dark and I was fading quickly, I got one lucky bite and added my 11th and final species of a great day. Christmas had come early.
The large eye cusk. I had fished this area for more than 25 years and never had any idea these were here.
The next day would be a boat day with beloved guide Jimmy, and Jiayuan was unable to attend because they were having some equipment problems in the lab. The kid is super-dedicated, and that will take him far in life. I trust Jimmy, but I also knew it was going to be a blustery day and would have preferred to have two experts on the boat.
Jimmy – ace Singapore guide. Look him up itsgreat7070@gmail.com
I figured, as I always do, that 10 hours of soaking shrimp on small hooks had to produce something. We spent some time racing around from spot to spot looking for larger catfish species on live shrimp, but we ended up doing what I always end up doing – praying to catch anything that was not a Belanger’s croaker. (Which makes up 82% of the local biomass.)
Dodging rainstorms, we caught close to a hundred fish, but they were all, alas, creatures I had previously registered.
The first critter was a tripodfish. Cute as they are, they are a sign that fishing won’t be great.
And of course, AFBC – another darn Belanger’s croaker. I don’t know who Belanger was, but I hate him for discovering this thing.
It was critical to me to scratch off December 16 as a date with a new species, and I kept up a constant text string with Jiayuan with new spots and ideas for fish. He seemed to think that a couple of catfish types were by best bet, and as it started to get late in the day, Jimmy was a good sport and actually moved into a mark Jiayuan sent us. Earlier in the day, we had fished within 200 feet of his suggestion, but he insisted that we get right by a particular floating house and fish exactly 18 feet of water.
After a couple of false starts with croakers, I got a solid bite and reeled up a catfish. It was noticeably different than the other cats I had gotten during the day, and I was immediately texting pictures to Jiayuan. Bingo – it was a gagora catfish, and I had species 16 of the trip – and had scratched off December 16th.
The most celebrated gagora catfish in history.
We deliberately kept the 17th light – Jiayuan was confident in a couple of slam dunks at St. John’s island, so we planned to go for the morning only, which would leave me time to run a few errands and see some friends in town. We took the ferry over, bringing back memories of a rain-soaked jaunt there with Alex in 2013. (The time he put the crab in my pocket.)
In case you wondered, that’s Jiayuan on the left.
Jiayuan was very organized and knew exactly where he wanted to go – this was a far cry from going with sport fishermen who were casting for dignified fish while I tried to guess where the cool stuff could be found. Our main target was a goby of some kind – he had given me the scientific name and I knew I hadn’t caught one, but the common name would turn out to be a delightful surprise. After a quick detour to set up some eel traps for school research, we headed back to a rockwall and set up some light gear – small bits up shrimp weighted just enough to cast out 10-15 feet.
After a few taps and misses, I hooked into a decent little fish and swung it up into my hand. It was a robust, iridescent goby, clearly new for me. Jiayuan saw it and said something that made my jaw drop. “You got your Puntang!” he exclaimed. “I got my WHAT?” I responded, bewildered he would have known how I was spending my evenings. “Your Puntang!” he said again. We went back and forth with a bit of a “who’s on first” routine until I finally worked out that the common name of the fish was, delightfully, the Puntang goby. So I finally have a valid scientific reason to say the word “Puntang” in my blog, and Marta can’t stop me like she has the other 472 times.
This is my Puntang goby. Puntang, Puntang, Puntang. Marta, it’s Exyrias puntang. Look it up – it’s for real and you can’t stop me. I have to say this word in the name of science.
I also got a lagoon shrimpgoby – a repeat catch but too cool not to post.
Maybe an hour later, as we were starting to head back to the ferry, we passed the rockwall again. Jiayuan gave it a quick look and froze – “Orbiculate cardinalfish!” he hissed. “Right at the base of the wall.” I flipped my rig into the water, and as I straightened my line out, I could see five or six fish swarf the bait. I lifted up, and was ecstatic to see one of the odder cardinalfish I have ever seen outside an aquarium.
The triumphant anglers.
Are these things cool or what?
That was pretty much it – mission accomplished. I had tacked on 18 new species in four quick days, and I couldn’t thank Jiayuan enough for his time and patience with me. The guy is a passionate angler and knowledgeable marine scientist – even though he plans to focus his studies more on the insect world. He also just plain gets it – there’s no explaining the urge to stay up past midnight fishing in a dark swamp to most normal humans. He is truly one of the brotherhood.
I caught the 1pm back to the mainland, and got into an Uber for my favorite tackle shop west of Hi’s – my buddy Jarvis’ store Lure Haven. It’s like visiting family – I have known Jarvis almost 25 years and heave been on countless adventures with him. Of course, the shop invariably has a few items I desperately need – and a bunch more I desperately want. (Except they never have t-shirts in my size.) We talked over old times – the fabled “Power Fishing” Malasia trip came up as it always does, and we chatted about a few new ideas, like a Maldives trip together.
Steve and Jarvis – a quarter-century of fishing together.
And Dave, who still has incredible Heng.
I finished the evening by cleaning the shrimp out from under my fingernails and heading off for a steak at Raffles, a local landmark that had been a big hangout for me and Nic Ware from what seems like 100 years ago.
I saw Barkess for another beer or three, and then, just like that, I was back on a jet for San Francisco. I returned to a marvelous Christmas, filled with friends, overeating, and 18 different interpretations of Ebeneezer Scrooge – Bill Murray has to be my favorite, but Michael Caine and Alastair Sim are not far behind. But out of everything that was under the tree in 2024, the best gift of all – the equivalent of a Red Ryder Carbine-action 200-shot Range Model Air Rifle – had been 18 species half a world away from my home. Thank you, Jiayuan, for one of the best Christmases ever – and no one got their eye shot out.
And all was right with the world.
Steve
Postscript – the gift that kept on giving
There was also, oddly enough, a sort of fifth day of fishing with Jiayuan – one that happened over email and Whatsapp. A lot of my old Singapore and Thailand species from years past had just one ID reference, and I started running a few by him. I almost stopped, because the first couple I ran by him cost me a species – marine catfish can be awful to ID, and my sources had missed a few. This is easier to do than you would think – ID resources on obscure fish can be rare and a moving target. But the armchair species started adding up. A new catfish here and there. A monocle bream split. As I write, there have been seven new species added in this project, meaning the trip had amassed me 25 new lifers – an even more epic haul.
Wolf’s Mystus Catfish, caught October 6, 2017, identified December 23, 2024.
The Javanese Sawcheek Monocle Bream – caught January 17, 2006, identified December 28, 2024.
The bigmouth sea catfish, caught October 7, 2017 – identified December 27, 2024.
A black and gold damsel – solving a 2008 ID mystery from Indonesia.
And of course, this gives me one more chance to say “Puntang.” So – puntang, puntang, puntang.


























































































































































































































































































